50 pointsby dgroshev13 hours ago7 comments
  • cyclotron3k10 hours ago
    Interesting and useful article, but:

    > If you are new to 3D printing and/or CAD for 3D printing, this is not the right article for you.

    I feel like I would have been fine with this article about a week into my 3d printing journey.

    • VorpalWay4 hours ago
      Original author here. Thanks for the feedback.

      I always find it hard to determine what audience is appropriate for what I write. In this case I specifically didn't want to spend time on explaining what I consider basic terminology, and as deep as I am into 3D printing it can be hard to know what is at what level.

  • mg2 hours ago
    I often wonder if there should be something like a "folded outline" mode in slicers. For example, it would make the outer left wall of an object:

        │││││││
        │││││││
        │││││││
        │││││││  Inside of the object
        │││││││  is here
        │││││││
        │││││││
        │││││││
        
    Look like this instead:

        ┌────
        └─────┐
        ┌─────┘
        └─────┐ Inside of the object
        ┌─────┘ is here
        └─────┐
        ┌─────┘
        └─────
        
    The seam (where the print head moves up a layer) could then be on the inside of the object:

        ┌────
        └─────┐
        ┌─────┘
        └─────  <-- Print head moves up here
        ┌─────┘
        └─────┐
        ┌─────┘
        └─────
    
    
    This might result in having no visible seam but instead evenly distributed vertical lines, similar to the horizontal lines that all 3D prints have. The horizontal lines look quite nice when the print is otherwise perfect. So maybe doing this and having horizontal AND vertical lines would look good overall?
    • VorpalWay2 hours ago
      I like this idea. Hiding the seam in a crack or sharp corner (convex or concave) is already a thing, and your idea builds on that.

      I'm also curious what it would do for part strength. If you offset the zig-zags from layer to layer it will not be as pretty obviously, but it should act like offset bricks in a brick wall. Worth exploring (but I don't have the equipment to test part strength).

      One effect of this would be to make the print dramatically slower though, you would never get up to max speed due to all the cornering.

      You could do this sort of pattern already while modelling (though that offset version would be very fiddly). Less practical than the slicer but useful for a quick proof of concept.

      Thinking about it some more, this is not that far from the existing fuzzy skin pattern already in slicers, and I believe that the relatively obscure slicer IdeaMaker does allow to apply arbitrary textures as height maps on the sides of parts. That could be another way to explore this.

      • mg2 hours ago
        I wouldn't mind long print times.

        I am not sure, but "fuzzy skin" seems to intentionally sacrifice some adherence to the object's exact shape? "folded outline" would not do that. If the printer prints it exactly, the print would match the object just as precisely as a normal outline.

        The IdeaMaker repo on GitHub says it is abandoned. Maybe there are other options? An open source slicer written in Python without dependencies that works on the command line would be my favorite starting point. If there is none, writing a new one might also be feasible?

        • VorpalWayan hour ago
          Yes, fuzzy skin does that, in order to create a rough texture. But your idea won't be perfectly conforming to the original shape either, the physics of molten plastic means you will likely get unevenness still.

          You could consider writing a post processing script, or perhaps experimenting with https://github.com/FullControlXYZ/fullcontrol (not a slicer but a toolkit for generating gcode from python). I suspect that a full on slicer in pure python would be rather slow though.

          I don't think IdeaMaker is abandoned, but it is closed source freeware.

          • mg26 minutes ago
            Fullcontrol looks interesting, thanks!

            I just started 3D printing a few weeks ago. I already realized that I need to write my own CAD software. None of the existing ones are the way I want to design objects. That will probably take a few months. Then I will probably want to control the prints down to the gcode level and look into the situation then.

      • cassianoleal2 hours ago
        > If you offset the zig-zags from layer to layer it will not be as pretty

        It would probably just be a slightly less random fuzzy skin effect.

        This is an interesting idea but I suspect print times would put most people off.

  • antirez3 hours ago
    Some time ago based on the same set of ideas I made this:

    https://makerworld.com/it/models/99219-olivetti-style-vase-m...

    You can create fast to print objects consuming very little filament, however to have some kind of texture on the surfaces is absolutely needed for strength.

  • VorpalWay4 hours ago
    Original author of the blog post here. Cool to see that people like this post enough for it to show up on HN (never had a account here until now).

    If you have questions related to the blog post, feel free ask.

  • ortusdux11 hours ago
    There are some great vase mode designs for gridfinity boxes that minimize filament usage and maximize print speed.

    https://www.printables.com/model/324102-vase-mode-parametric...

    • VorpalWay4 hours ago
      (Original author of the blog post here.)

      That is a neat design. From what I can tell though, the split base/top is overly complex. You can simply set (in PrusaSlicer at least) the number of layers to print normally before switching to vase mode.

      Other than that, it seems to deriving strength from having sides that are not flat (same reason a rolled up paper is stiffer than a flat pice of paper), a fairly common trick when working with thin flat material of any kind (e.g. bent metal or cardboard have the same concerns). No "unusual" vase mode tricks that I can see.

  • addaon13 hours ago
    A lot of these tricks are used to print UAV / RC wings with internal structure, often out of foaming filaments to reduce weight.
    • beeflet11 hours ago
      Why not use normal printing techniques with low or no infill? Or just design the parts with internal cavities
      • addaon10 hours ago
        A few reasons. First, foaming filaments, especially PLAs, are very, very, very stringy -- you can't really cut off the feed by stopping the extruder, because the small remnant in the heating head will continue to absorb heat and expand out of the head. So having a single continuous path is almost required for decent quality. Second, minimum weight (both for a given strength, and absolutely) is achieved at a single wall; and vase mode is designed to exactly meet both of those constraints.
  • stevenhubertron10 hours ago
    Vase mode has been around for quite some time and a very popular way to print quickly.